Creating a realistic hose load

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Re: Creating a realistic hose load

Postby mark on Fri Sep 11, 2009 3:41 pm

Thanks Charlie that is very cool! 8-)
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Re: Creating a realistic hose load

Postby jimb on Tue Sep 22, 2009 3:01 pm

Charlie,

Question about the Morse Gate: would it go on the end of the line that attaches to the hydrant, or on the end that attaches to the truck? I saw your "tutorial" about "Making a Morse Gate", and I thought I'd give it a go. What the heck.

This truck's never going to be done! I keep adding stuff to it.
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Re: Creating a realistic hose load

Postby chariots of fire on Tue Sep 22, 2009 7:23 pm

In actuallity there should be two gates. A hydrant should never be dressed with just one gate. To do so makes it impossible to add another line without shutting the hydrant down. SO! Attach one gate to the hydrant end of your supply line and put it in the hydrant bag. Put the second gate loose in the bag. Dress the hydrant with one gate on each 2-1/2 discharge. Open the gate with the attached supply line and you're ready to go. When someone else wants to tie into the hydrant they just connect to the second gate and open it up.
All of this is really why the hydrant assist valve was invented. It allows for the steamer to be used in much the same way and you get a lot more water that way. ;)
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Re: Creating a realistic hose load

Postby jimb on Tue Sep 22, 2009 7:45 pm

Ok, so one gate attached to the line, and one in a bag. What does a hydrant bag look like? How would I make one in scale? I'm assuming that the female coupler on the gate attaches to the hydrant.
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Re: Creating a realistic hose load

Postby chariots of fire on Wed Sep 23, 2009 7:35 pm

The ones we used were canvas bags with a leather bottom. Probably been around a while. Yes. The female coupling of the gate would go to the hydrant. Here is a hydrant bag I made for my 1988 E-One pumper. You'll notice on this particular rig the hydrant gate valve is mounted on the rear step with the bag attached with a section of rope. The extra gate valve is inside along with a couple of spanners and the hydrant wrench. I made the bag out of paper and painted it up.
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Re: Creating a realistic hose load

Postby jimb on Wed Sep 23, 2009 8:27 pm

Oh! Ok, so it's sort of like a canvas bucket. I should be able to make that (I think).
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Re: Creating a realistic hose load

Postby ChrisMooney on Thu Sep 24, 2009 7:47 pm

We use Lineman's Bags. Like the electrical lineman use

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl= ... start%3D40
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Re: Creating a realistic hose load

Postby jimb on Thu Sep 24, 2009 8:57 pm

Are you talking about the tool bag? It says 24", and I'm assuming that's the length. What's the height & width? About 15" high by 12" wide?
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Re: Creating a realistic hose load

Postby cargostar on Sat Sep 26, 2009 12:52 pm

Here are some different styles of bags.
http://www.kleintools.com/ToolCatalog/P ... uckets.pdf
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Re: Creating a realistic hose load

Postby jimb on Sat Sep 26, 2009 3:08 pm

Thanks.
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Re: Creating a realistic hose load

Postby chariots of fire on Mon Oct 05, 2009 6:58 pm

That's exactly what they are; lineman's bags. The former Deputy Chief used to work for the local telephone company.
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Re: Creating a realistic hose load

Postby rescue 74 on Sun Oct 11, 2009 2:42 pm

hey chariots of fire, what did you use for the yellow hose? like in the vary first picture I want to do a fire truck and it has that type of hose.
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Re: Creating a realistic hose load

Postby chariots of fire on Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:39 pm

It is 3M brand tape. The tape is 3/4" wide so I folded it in thirds lengthwise and just laid it in hose bed.
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Re: Creating a realistic hose load

Postby Drake44 on Fri Jan 09, 2015 1:44 am

Thanks for the great tutorial. Question: what diameter tubing do you use for the different size couplings?
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Re: Creating a realistic hose load

Postby Aaronw on Fri Jan 09, 2015 7:20 pm

Not Charlie, but common North American hose sizes are 1.5", 1.75", 2.5", 3", 4" and 5", with 2" and 6" being seen but not common. In 1/25 scale those work out to .06", .07", 0.1", 0.12", 0.16", 0.2", (0.08 and 0.24 for 2 and 6"). Technically that is inside diameter so you can add just a pinch more for the couplings. When flat the hose gets about 50% wider than the diameter and is 1/2" to 1" thick (flat, a piece of 3" hose is about 4-5" wide, and maybe 3/4" thick).

If you use metric it is roughly 1mm per 1 inch (so 2.5" hose would be about 2.5mm in diameter).
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Re: Creating a realistic hose load

Postby Jeff_C on Fri Jan 09, 2015 11:30 pm

Hey Charlie, great tutorial.

You can even use balsa wood for the box.
Looks like I picked the wrong week to quit sniffing glue
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Re: Creating a realistic hose load

Postby Firepig on Fri Jan 16, 2015 12:58 am

Excellent tutorial, Charlie!

This is GOOD stuff, guys.
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Re: Creating a realistic hose load

Postby chariots of fire on Tue Nov 10, 2015 9:02 pm

Wow! Does time fly! Can't believe it was so long ago that this tutorial was done. Anyway I had a request for info on hose loads so I refered to this tutorial. I mentioned and showed in a photo a horseshoe lay where I used shoe laces for the hose. Not too cool! :x But here is the same load with the cover off on a more recent truck so you can see how the horseshoe lay looks from the top. It was put in the bed the same way it was described above. In this one sewing elastic was stained and then laid in the bed in one long piece. The strip method really does not work well for this kind of a load.
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Re: Creating a realistic hose load

Postby 1st 700 Quad on Wed Apr 20, 2016 9:12 pm

Some comments and then a question. I have already ordered the tubing cutter and will be getting the elastic this weekend. Formerly I used shoestring but the elastic looks much better. What sizes of brass and aluminum tubing would you use? The size of the elastic is mentioned but not the tubing.

Thanks, this is great!
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Re: Creating a realistic hose load

Postby chariots of fire on Thu Apr 21, 2016 11:27 am

For the 1/8" flat hose that would represent a 1-1/2" working line use two sizes for the male coupling. 1/8" dia. for the outside and the next size down to slip into the end to represent the exposed threads. Just use the 1/8" dia for the female coupling with a scribed line that represents the swivel part. For the larger diameter hose use 3/16" diameter for the outside male coupling and the female coupling. The exposed male threads would be a piece that just slips into the 3/16" diameter tubing.
For the round forestry hose use a brass or aluminum tube that the elastic will just fit into. 3/32" diameter would be about right but you need to test it out. Sometimes it takes a bit of tweaking to get the elastic to go inside. Try trimming it with a sharp pair of scissors first. The elastic has a tendancy to get fuzzy and is hard to slip into the tubing unless you trim it square.
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Re: Creating a realistic hose load

Postby hooknladderno1 on Thu May 05, 2016 10:22 am

chariots of fire wrote:It is 3M brand tape. The tape is 3/4" wide so I folded it in thirds lengthwise and just laid it in hose bed.

Hi Charlie,
What type of "3-M" tape are you referring to? Electrical tape? I posted your thread on the "Scale Fire Modeler" page on Facebook (with credit of course) and received a question as to the "type of tape ". Thank you.

David
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Re: Creating a realistic hose load

Postby chariots of fire on Thu May 05, 2016 10:50 pm

Hi, David: No, not electrical tape. It's just that yellow colored tape that is about 3/4" wide. Sometimes it comes in a package of several different colors. I prefer the kind that is not smooth since the real hose does have some ribbing to it. It's more like duct tape but not silver or gray in color.
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Re: Creating a realistic hose load

Postby cdnguy68 on Mon Nov 06, 2017 12:16 pm

Thanks for this! Love the way you've organized and detailed the tutorial. I may practice first on my son's 1/32 Mack pumper before I do the real deal on my AMT ALF.
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